My Second scratch-made car for rFactor - the famous 1993 Toyota Supra. I created the model originally for Racer a few years ago, but I tore it apart and almost completely remodeled it with increased details this time.

The mod will include 2 versions: 1993 GZ and 1998 RZ Twin Turbo. I've still got a lot of graphics to do, and I'm also working on some custom shaders, which will make the body reflections look more real, for this mod.

I will include 1 or 2 sets of additional wheels and an additional TRD spoiler for those who don't fancy the stock looks of the car. Bot no body kits or other crazy stuff!

The visual damage model will be quite realistic this time - many parts will fall off. I've used up all the possible detachable part slots rF supports. Bumpers, trunk, hood, spoiler, doors and other small bits and pieces fall off when crashing... not that I would want you to crash such an iconic sports car

After the Corvette C6 comes another mod from Siim and Niels: the
Toyota Supra MKIV!

Authors: Siim Annuk (graphics) and Niels Heusinkveld (physics)
Version: 1.0
Date: 31-08-2009
Known issues/bugs:
* DX7/DX8 mode is not recommended (although mod works...)
* For best graphics experience it is recommended to run this mod with all rFactor gfx settings maxed (duh!).

This iconic Japanese car comes in two flavours, a 220hp normally
aspirated one and a 320hp twin turbo. There are some styling upgrades such
as rims available but the performance is bone stock. We aim to model
the cars as they originally left the factory, before nasty body kits
and ugly exhausts messed with the looks, and large mega lag turbos
messed with the pure handling. The only performance tweaks are the
optional rear wing, affecting aerodynamics, and the 220hp version can
be fitted with a limited slip differential.

Special thanks to Racing Line Developments allowing us to use sounds
from the pacecar (a Supra!) in their CARTFactor mod!

Release thread at RSC: http://forum.racesimcentral.com/showthread.php?p=3994027

Siim on the graphics
====================
This time, I've decided to boost the visual quality of the car by
introducing a couple of custom shaders that this mod uses. Most notably
the mod features the all new light flare shaders (that will be available
as an addon for rFactor shortly after the release of this mod) that give (head)lights
more realistic look and feel. Also, the body shaders have been customized
to give a Gran Turismo-style lighting (fresnel effect for example). The damage
model is as realistic as rFactor (and my knowledge) makes it possible - most
parts (doors, hood, bumpers etc.) will fall off when crashing heavily.
As for the shaders, feel free to modify them or use them in your own mods,
just make sure I receive the credits for the original work

Niels on the physics
====================
As with the Corvette C6 mod, I've tried to make this car as realistic
as possible, using the latest version of my TREX 'mega tool'. The
Supra is a well known car and there is quite a bit of data available
online. I've even found measured 3D suspension geometry and copied
that straight to rFactor so the camber changes and 'anti dive'
features are all based on what should be accurate real measurments.
Plenty of other things are straight from real data and tires are
matched to give an accurate level of grip of around 0.96G on a
skidpan. Acceleration and braking is also pretty close to the
'average' of real tests. This being stock road cars, car setup options
are very limited. You can tweak the cambers a little and I've even
cheated by making the rear anti roll bar adjustable. Slight pressure
and toe tweaks are also possible. You can definitely change the
balance a little but mostly it is a case of trying to learn how to
maximize the car. There is no brute power or insane oversteer to get
you round corners, they need smooth and delicate inputs to get quick
laptimes!

Check the car upgrades and pick your shifter style. There is even a
wimpy auto lift/blip upgrade available. H shifter users should use the
correct upgrade and blip on the downshifts, either when you've got the
clutch pressed or put the stick in neutral and give it a blip, then
shift down. Also select the realfeel upgrade; it has recommended
settings in there as well. For 900 degrees wheels such as the G25,
DFGT and Fanatec units, a real steering lock would be 26 degrees as
the car has a 17.5:1 steering ratio. The car setup maximum of 31 is
also the real cars maximum. Since 900 degrees isn't enough, you could
sit between 26 and 31. I mostly use 28 degrees on my G25 wheel.

Driving in general
------------------
The cars have ABS systems in real life, so you could use that. If you
don't use ABS, you'll find that the front tires can lock up under hard
braking. Braking in a straight line, the tires lock up only after
you've applied 90% or more brakes, so if you think they're too
sensitive, well, they aren't really THAT sensitive!
Smooth driving is really required for a car that is soft, slow and
heavy compared to most race cars. You will get less response from
'fast inputs' and the chances are that 'fast and abrupt' inputs do
more harm than good. You only want to do things ONCE. That means you
go on the brakes once, then slowly ease off the brakes as you turn in.
Suddenly take your foot off the brakes and you'll probably get
understeer. When you apply the power, you want to be sure of it and
you don't want to lift off again. This is probably harder in a
simulation than in real life as you don't feel the jerks in G force
that result from sudden inputs. Don't try too hard is probably good
advice and don't drive like they're formula fords! There is slight
wear and tear modelled but overheating tires really have to be very
hot before you loose noticable grip. Between 30 and 130 degrees
celcius the tires are fine, and don't worry if the outer temperatures
are 10c higher than the inner, this is all minor stuff. Hot pressures
are fine between 200 and 300kpa. Tire wear is present but up to about
60% tire wear you still only have lost 5% grip. You can get brake fade
but it shouldn't be too severe unless your brakes get hotter than 700
degrees celcius. The engine can also break down if you really overrev
it so don't shift down too early. If you drive normally you shouldn't
be affected too much by heat or wear.

Driving The Twin Turbo
----------------------
Actually there is no turbo modelling in rFactor and I decided not to
'simulate' it by having some strange big jump in the torque curve.
That means the engine has lots of immediate torque even at low revs,
which can take you by surprise out of slow corners. While lift off
oversteer is slightly present, its safe and won't make you spin out.
However, to get the car to turn, try braking slightly into the
corners. A light touch of brakes combined with turning in will make
the front stick and the rear loose. The trick is then to keep this
slight 4 wheel drift going. If you get it INTO the turns properly, you
can hang on to a neutral handling state but its easy to mess up; apply
just a little too much steering lock and you can easily get
understeer. Road cars like these are best used entering corners a bit
slow because if you overcook it on the way in, there just isn't that
much you can do to fix it. A bit early on the brakes and then as you
come off the brakes, turn in, the car should be neutral or slightly
oversteery and then go for a straight ish exit. You can get serious
oversteer trying to brake very deeply into sharp bends, and if you
pound the accelerator in 2nd or 3rd gear, the back can step out so be
careful! Pretend its your real car and be easy with it, thats probably
going to make you faster as well!

Driving The Non Turbo
---------------------
I like this car best without a rear wing, and with the open
differential. There isn't enough power to really require a limited
slip diff. At times, some inside wheelspin is not bad because this
will rev up the engine and unlike the Turbo, you need to rev this
engine more to get into the power band. Corner entry is the same as
the turbo, you can certainly use a little brakes + turn in to get some
oversteer on the way in. With less power though, the trick is to try
and go on the power as soon as possible but you have to realize that
with the lack of power, you can't rotate the car that much once you
floor it. The trick is to figure out for each corner how much turning
you can get done when braking into the corner, and then smash the
accelerator which can just about sustain neutral handling in slow and
medium speed corners. WHile it only has 220hp, the handling is nice
and forgiving and you can really play around with it. This is a fun
car that won't bite ya in the butt all too often!


We hope you enjoy driving it as much as we did enjoy creating it!